The higher the fence, the better the neighbors …

Chinese folk wisdom.

As time has shown, the most reliable fence is a smooth concrete wall erected on a foundation. Good, reliable. Moles from the outside will not get over and it is difficult for a thief to overcome.

But behind such a «Chinese wall» you feel like a prisoner if the territory of the site is small. And what about the owners of 10-15 acres?

It is necessary to choose something more «light» and aesthetic. And manufacturers are ready to present fences made of concrete sections with various textures to the taste of the buyer. The convenience of these designs is the ability to choose combinations and heights.

The second aspect is longevity. According to the manufacturers, it will protect your borders for 20 years. In reality, it can be much longer if the quality of the concrete meets technical standards. If we make a comparison, then a concrete fence, subject to the technology, is more durable than brick, but inferior to stone.

Not everyone can afford to immediately pay a tidy sum for the perimeter fence of the site, especially if the site was not bought, but received by the legal right of a citizen of their country.

I must say that it is not difficult to buy a mold for casting fence sections and pillars via the Internet. So gradually over a year or two, you can cast a sufficient number of elements and slowly protect the entire area. There would be a desire and strength … the latter will be required to carry forms, the weight of which, together with concrete, is up to 75 kg.

To get started, stock up on all the necessary components.

You will need:

• reinforcing (wire) welded mesh, section 4-6 mm, cell 10 x 10 cm, hot-rolled steel or cold-drawn wire with notches with a section of 4 mm (the most attractive option for the price),
• Portland cement grade M-500, sand more than 2 microns (pure and without clay impurities), crushed stone fraction 2-5 mm, plasticizer, water,
• concrete mixer — high-quality mixing is the key to strength,
• a wooden shield on which the form will lie,
• actually, a plastic mold (fiberglass or ABS plastic)
• shovel, level and leveler (long profile for leveling the surface and removing excess cement.

Ideally, in order to rid the concrete of air bubbles, a vibrating table is needed, but you can do without it if you make the solution a little thinner (determined empirically after pouring one or two forms).

The process proceeds in the following sequence.

First, cement and sand are mixed, then water and a plasticizer are added in parts.

Water is added so that a loose creamy mass is obtained. A more liquid state will make the concrete fragile due to the possible separation of the mortar into components, too thick a mortar will contain air bubbles that reduce the strength of the concrete.

The form is attached to the rack frame with self-tapping screws, the bottom of which is made of a shield. The frame should have handles for which it will be convenient to hold, shake and turn the form with an already frozen product.

The mold is lubricated with a very thin layer (so that there are no drops) of used oil (you can use vegetable oil from a deep fryer) or treated with a silicone spray. The most suitable type of lubricant is best chosen empirically.

The form is set strictly according to the level (horizontally) on the shield lying on the table, half filled with a solution, shaken thoroughly until bubbles appear on the surface, poured with a solution to the brim.

Immediately lay the reinforcing mesh (indent from the edges of at least 1.5 cm), slightly press it in and shake vigorously again. Instead of mesh, I use 4 mm notched wire. I put five pieces of 45 cm across the form, two pieces of 195 cm — along the edges.

This time, the shaking process is difficult, so it’s better to tap the shield around the mold with a hammer to create a vibration (instead of a vibrating table).

So the solution will fill all the cavities of the mold, cement milk will stand out on its surface. Next, level the surface and remove excess mortar with a leveler, spatula or trowel.

24 hours is enough for initial hardening. During this time, the concrete will set quite firmly. After this period, the form is turned over (carefully supporting it!) And the concrete slab is separated from it. Dry the concrete section under a canopy in the shade flat on a flat surface, if it is too hot outside, cover it with polyethylene for more uniform drying.

If you are not in a hurry, it is better to let the concrete harden in the form for three days, after which the product can already be placed «on edge» under a canopy, which saves space.

The most favorable conditions for drying are temperatures from +20 to +25 degrees Celsius. A week is enough to achieve final strength. In hot weather, the outer surface dries faster than the inner layer, which can lead to cracking. That’s why we need a canopy and a film.

Storage of finished sections is carried out in a vertical position, and columns in a horizontal position.

To begin with, they make markings on the ground — they pull the rope, marking the fence line.

Next, install the first pillar. The depth of the trench is below the freezing level of the soil. Fixation with concrete mortar. While the solution hardens, dig the next trench under the pole.

The lower section of the fence is inserted into the groove of the first post. The second column is adjusted to the width of the section, fixed with spacers and concreted. Allow the solution to dry.

The upper sections start later.

The concrete fence is left to weather for six months so that the grease is washed off.


CONCRETE FENCE DESIGN or HOW TO COLOR IT

Painting of concrete products is carried out with facade paints, airbrush, after preliminary priming. Finishing the surface with a hydrophobic composition will protect the coating from moisture.

The choice of color matters … When different textures are combined, for example, «stone» and «wood», it is quite reasonable to balance them with one color.

And if the print on the fence is only under the «tree», then the color is chosen accordingly. For reliability, you can highlight deeper areas in a dark tone.

Elegant details, highlighted with soft contrast, will give the appearance of the fence a certain solemnity.

Openwork details painted in a light shade will create the illusion of a «light» design.

A brush (for painting deep areas), a sponge (it should be almost dry to lighten bumps) and paints of different shades will help to make the natural texture close to natural.

Colored concrete with the effect of «marble» is prepared in a concrete mixer, even in several at the same time. Solutions of different tones of the same color are prepared in different containers, before pouring into the mold they are mixed in one, making just a few turns.

A white fence always looks elegant.

Gray is the perfect backdrop for flower beds.

A few turquoise accents on the surface of the «stone» and the fence harmoniously fit into the frame of the courtyard, repeating the turquoise on the facade of the house.

What else to read on the site:

Outdoor fireplace — a hearth for relaxing in the garden

Making a fireplace in the yard is much easier than folding it in the interior or building a barbecue complex. It no longer requires strict adherence to the canons and complex calculations — any errors in self-construction will not bring any tangible discomfort.